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How to Store Holiday Decorations So They Survive the Year
Half of what I put away last January came out unusable this year. What am I doing wrong at the packing-up end?
Almost certainly putting things away damp. An inflatable folded into a sealed tote with any moisture in it grows mould within a month, and mould on coated fabric is permanent. Dry everything completely before it goes in a box, coil light strands loosely rather than winding them tight, store boxes somewhere the temperature does not swing violently, and reseal the cut edges of anything painted every second year.
6 minute read.
Dry is the whole thing
If you take one instruction from this page, it is this one, and it is the one that costs the most to ignore.
A decoration comes down in January damp, because January. It goes into a plastic tote. The lid goes on. That tote is now a sealed humid container that will sit at room temperature in a garage for eleven months, which is a specification for growing mould rather than for storing things.
On an inflatable this is terminal. The mould grows into the coating on the fabric, it stains through, and it does not come out. The piece is also then unpleasant to be near, which matters more than it sounds like it should when you unpack it in a garage in October.
Drying an inflatable properly means running it — inflate it somewhere sheltered on a dry day and leave the blower going for an hour, which dries the inside as well as the outside. Draping it over something for an afternoon dries one surface and traps the rest. This is the step people skip and it is the step that matters.
Everything else follows the same rule. Wire figures dry in an hour. Plywood needs a genuinely dry day or it will go away with moisture in the end grain, which is how edges delaminate.
What kills what
| Thing | What actually ends it | The fix, which is usually free |
|---|---|---|
| Inflatables | Mould from being stored damp | Run the blower for an hour on a dry day before folding. Store loosely in a breathable bag, not vacuum-compressed in a sealed tote. |
| Light strands | Wire fatigue at the bends | Coil loosely in figure-eights or round your forearm. Never wind tight round card or a reel; that is a fatigue crack at every turn. |
| Painted plywood | Water into the cut edges | Reseal edges every second year. Store upright and off a concrete floor, which wicks moisture straight into the bottom edge. |
| Wire and acrylic figures | Crushing under other boxes | They are the least fragile things you own until something heavy goes on top. Store them last and highest. |
| Animatronics | Damp reaching the motor housing | These are the ones to bring into the house. A conditioned closet beats a garage by a wide margin, and they are the most expensive items in the pile. |
| Extension cords | Kinks and jacket cracks | Coil loose, hang rather than stack. A cord stored under weight for a year develops flat spots you cannot see. |
Where, which matters more than what you store it in
An unheated garage or a shed is where nearly everything ends up, and it is acceptable for most things provided they went in dry. The enemy there is the daily temperature swing, which drives condensation: a container that warms in the afternoon and cools at night moves moisture around inside itself.
An attic is worse than people think. Summer attic temperatures wreck vinyl and soften adhesives, and an inflatable that has spent a July up there comes down with its seams tackier than they went up.
A basement is better for temperature and worse for humidity. If the basement is dry, it is the best of the three.
Get boxes off a concrete floor whatever the space. Concrete wicks moisture continuously and the bottom inch of everything stacked on it is in a different climate from the rest. A pallet, a shelf or two lengths of 2x4 solves it entirely.
And bring the animatronics indoors. They are the most expensive things in the pile and the least tolerant of damp, and they are usually small enough to live in a closet.
The twenty minutes in January that saves an hour in October
Label by where it goes, not by what it is. "Front left flank" beats "reindeer", because next October you will be reconstructing an arrangement rather than an inventory.
Photograph the yard before you take it down, from the sidewalk, at night and lit. Everybody thinks they will remember the arrangement and nobody does. The photo is also the thing that tells you honestly what looked good, which you cannot judge while you are in the middle of building it.
Bag each piece's own stakes, tethers and hardware with the piece, in a labelled bag inside the box. Loose hardware in the bottom of a tote becomes hardware that belongs to nothing by next year, and the tethers are the part that stops the inflatable blowing over.
Write down what failed and what you wished you had. A note in the box saying "one more 50 ft run would have finished the fence line" is worth a great deal in the week after the holiday, when the same thing is 70 per cent off.
Outdoor decorations hit their deepest discounts in the week after the holiday, commonly 50 to 75 per cent off, which is exactly when you are packing up and know precisely what the display was missing.
That is the one moment in the year when the information and the price line up. Write the list while the yard is still standing.
Where this usually goes wrong
Packing an inflatable away damp
The single most expensive storage mistake there is. Mould grows into the fabric coating within a month and does not come out. Run the blower for an hour on a dry day first — that dries the inside, which draping it over a rail does not.
Winding light strands tight
Tight winding puts a fatigue bend at every turn, and copper that has been held bent for eleven months fails at those points. Loose figure-eight coils cost nothing and no time.
Vacuum-bagging an inflatable to save space
It saves a lot of space and it creases the coated fabric hard along the fold lines, which is where they eventually split. Loose in a breathable bag is the trade worth making.
Storing boxes directly on a concrete floor
Concrete wicks moisture up into whatever sits on it all year. Two lengths of 2x4 under a stack removes the problem completely and costs nothing.
Loose hardware in the bottom of the tote
By October the stakes and tethers belong to nothing identifiable, and the tethers are the part that keeps the inflatable upright. Bag them with their own piece.
Every plan on this site lists the hardware each piece needs separately from the decorating budget, which is also the list to check things back against when they go into the box.
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